While walking through the streets of Hakodate, there are moments when you feel like slowing down . Moments when you want to sit somewhere quiet and simply take a breath. That’s exactly when Hishii, a much-loved Showa retro café in Hakodate, feels just right. Featured in Japanese travel magazines , this long-running café sits between Hakodate Station and the Motomachi area , making it an easy stop during sightseeing. Step inside, and you’ll find a calm, almost timeless space where the pace of the city gently fades away.
Also, if you’re traveling from Sapporo or Tokyo, the JR Rail Pass is the most convenient way to reach this port city.
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Location & Practical Information Hishii is close to the tram line and fits naturally into a walking route around the city.
Hishii Café Address: 9-4 Horaicho, Hakodate, HokkaidoTel: +81 138-27-3300 (phone reservations available)Opening hours: 11:00–18:00Closed: WednesdaysPayment: Cash onlyParking : Available
Because of its location, it works perfectly as a short break between sightseeing spots.
Hishii is located in the Horaicho area, a peaceful neighborhood perfect for a morning stroll. If you’d like to stay within walking distance of this cozy atmosphere, check out the Best Hotels in the Motomachi/Bay Area .
History: The Black Stucco Warehouse—A Resilient Witness to the City’s Past The exterior of Hishii. This concrete ‘Kura’ storehouse has a truly remarkable history. Housed in the former Imura Pawnshop built in 1905, “Sabō Hishii” stands as a resilient witness to Hakodate’s history. Having survived two devastating Great Fires, this black stucco warehouse was reborn in 1982 as a pioneer of renovated “kura” cafés. Today, along with its antique shop, it remains a quintessential landmark where one can truly feel the weight of the city’s enduring spirit.
A Space Where Time Feels Softer This Showa-era café is incredibly popular, even among the younger generation in Japan. The moment you open the door, the atmosphere changes. The café is quiet, calm, and filled with a sense of nostalgia that reflects Japan’s Showa era —roughly the mid-20th century, a time often associated with warmth, simplicity, and everyday charm. Soft sunlight pours in through large windows , illuminating well-worn furniture and vintage details. The scene feels almost like a still photograph. Time here doesn’t stop, but it moves more gently than outside.
Everyday Hakodate, Seen from the Counter Not only is the light from the windows beautiful, but these antique chairs date back to the time when Western culture first arrived in Japan. Inside, there’s a classic counter-style kitchen. From your seat, you can watch the okami-san—the owner—carefully preparing food and drinks. Regular customers sit at the counter, chatting quietly with her. Their easy conversation gives the café a lived-in, local feel. Even as a visitor, you feel naturally welcomed , as if you’re sharing a small piece of everyday life in Hakodate.
A Rich Swiss Roll Made with Hakodate Milk This snow-white, indulgent Swiss roll is the absolute icon of the shop. I originally came in planning to order the café’s popular parfait. But the words “Hakodate milk” on the menu caught my eye , so I chose the Swiss roll instead.
Swiss Roll Set (with tea or coffee): ¥1,050 A popular spot that prides itself on a beautiful and curated selection of tableware. The cake arrived looking dense and satisfying. When I cut into it, the texture was surprisingly similar to cheesecake. One bite, and the rich flavour of Hakodate milk fills your mouth. The sweetness is gentle, not heavy, and it pairs beautifully with the carefully brewed tea. It’s the kind of dessert that quietly restores your energy.
Variety: A rich lineup of Japanese and Western-style sweets. While I enjoyed the Swiss roll this time, the menu is filled with many other tempting options. You’ll find a delightful mix of Japanese and Western desserts , including their signature “Shiratama Matcha Cream Anmitsu” —featuring homemade agar jelly and rich brown sugar syrup—and the visually stunning “Hishii-style Parfait.” They also offer light meals like pizza toast and sandwich sets , making every visit a chance to discover something new and delicious.
A Café for Doing Nothing — and Enjoying It Hishii isn’t just a place to eat or drink. It’s a place to pause. You don’t need to talk much here. You don’t need to rush. You simply sit, enjoy the calm, and let the atmosphere of the city sink in. If you’re looking for a Showa retro café in Hakodate where you can take a peaceful break between Hakodate Station and Motomachi, Hishii is well worth a visit. It’s a small moment of stillness that stays with you long after you leave.
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